What Are Spicules in Skincare? What to Know Before Treatment
If you follow Korean skincare trends, you may have started seeing terms such as spicules, reedle skincare, liquid microneedling or bio microneedling.
The terminology can make the idea sound more complicated than it really is.
Spicules are microscopic, needle-like structures derived from sponge material. In skincare, they are used for their physical interaction with the outer layers of the skin. They are very different from the metal needles used in traditional microneedling, even though the two approaches are sometimes described with similar language.
Interest in this category has grown rapidly with the popularity of Korean home-care products and professional treatments. At the same time, people are asking sensible questions: What exactly are these microscopic structures? Where do they go after application? Why can the face feel prickly afterwards? And is an in-clinic procedure the same thing as using a spicule serum at home?
Here is what we currently know.
What Exactly Are Spicules?
Natural spicules form part of the structural skeleton of certain sponges. Depending on the species, their composition can differ.
For cosmetic use, sponge material is processed into microscopic rigid particles that can be incorporated into skincare products or professional systems. Ingredient lists may refer to this material as hydrolyzed sponge or another sponge-derived ingredient.
Because of their extremely small size and needle-like shape, these particles interact with the surface mechanically rather than behaving like a conventional cream, serum or chemical exfoliant.
That physical action is what makes this category different.
What Do They Actually Do in the Skin?
The outermost layer of our skin is designed to act as a protective barrier.
When microscopic sponge-derived particles are worked across the surface, research using specific marine sponge spicules shows that they can physically disrupt this barrier and create tiny pathways that increase skin permeability. A 2017 study using Haliclona sponge spicules found that they remained within the skin for at least 72 hours and increased penetration of experimental molecules.
This helps explain why spicules are being studied not only in cosmetics but also as potential delivery tools.
There is, however, an important distinction.
Research involving a particular type and size of experimental sponge material does not prove that every commercial cosmetic formula delivers every active ingredient to the same depth. Size, concentration, preparation, formulation and application technique can all differ.
Claims that a particular cosmetic system carries ingredients “deep into the dermis” therefore need evidence for that specific system.
Do Spicules Stay in the Skin?
Unlike a traditional microneedle, which enters the skin and is immediately removed, these microscopic structures can remain temporarily after application.
In the Haliclona research mentioned above, spicules were detected within the skin for at least 72 hours. That finding is useful for understanding the technology, but it should not be turned into a universal 72-hour rule for every cosmetic product or professional system.
Different preparations can use different materials, particle sizes, concentrations and application methods.
The practical takeaway is simpler: they are not inserted and immediately removed like metal microneedles. Their physical interaction with the surface can continue after application.
That also helps explain something many people notice afterwards.
Why Can Your Skin Feel Prickly?
The prickling sensation has a physical explanation.
These microscopic structures are rigid, so pressure or rubbing can make them noticeable after application. Someone may feel very little while sitting still but notice prickling when washing the face, applying skincare or touching the treated area.
The intensity varies.
A stronger sensation does not automatically mean a better result, and very little sensation does not prove that nothing happened.
Persistent burning, significant swelling or increasing irritation, however, are different from temporary prickling and should not simply be ignored.
Is “Liquid Microneedling” Really Microneedling?
Not in the traditional sense.
Liquid microneedling has become a popular marketing term, but conventional microneedling and sponge-based skin renewal work differently.
Professional microneedling uses sterile metal needles at controlled depths. The needles enter the skin and are immediately withdrawn.
Spicule-based products and procedures instead use microscopic sponge-derived structures worked across the surface.
This does not make one approach inherently better than the other. They are different tools.
Traditional microneedling is used when controlled needle depth and collagen stimulation are part of the treatment goal. Spicule-based renewal works differently and is often chosen for concerns such as texture, congestion, pigmentation and general skin maintenance.
Current consumer dermatology coverage of the K-beauty trend also emphasizes that at-home spicule skincare should not be treated as a substitute for professional microneedling simply because similar terminology is used. Read the dermatologist-reviewed overview.
Related: Microneedling in Vancouver
Why Has Spicule Skincare Become So Popular?
The concept itself is not new.
Sponge-based resurfacing has existed for years. What has changed is its visibility.
Korean skincare has introduced spicule-containing serums and other home-care products to a much wider audience. Terms such as reedle skincare and liquid microneedling have helped move what was once a relatively niche concept into mainstream beauty discussions.
As a result, many people now encounter the technology through a product purchased online before they ever hear about an in-clinic version.
That creates an important distinction.
At-Home Spicule Skincare vs a Professional Treatment
They belong to the same broad category, but they are not automatically interchangeable.
An at-home product is formulated for consumers to apply themselves according to the manufacturer’s directions. Formulas and concentrations vary between brands, and numbers such as “100,” “300” or “700” should not be assumed to represent a universal strength scale across different manufacturers.
An in-clinic procedure adds another important component: assessment.
At Iris Beauty Solution, the Korean system we use combines prepared sponge-derived material with an accompanying ampoule and finishing mask. Before starting, we can consider the current condition of the skin, sensitivity, pigmentation history and previous reactions.
We can also see how it responds afterwards.
That matters because more intensity is not always better when working with a resurfacing technique that temporarily affects the skin barrier.
Learn more about our Bio Microneedling Vancouver: Korean Spicule Skin Renewal service.
Are Spicules Safe?
This is an area where it is worth avoiding both extremes.
It would be inaccurate to describe this technology as inherently dangerous simply because it creates temporary pathways in the skin.
It would also be inappropriate to assume that anything sold as skincare is automatically suitable for every person or for unlimited use.
Dermatologists discussing home-use products recommend particular caution with an already compromised or irritated barrier and advise against stacking spicule products with strong retinoids or exfoliating acids, which can increase irritation. See the dermatologist-reviewed discussion.
Scientific discussion is also continuing. In 2026, the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology published an editorial titled “Hidden risks behind the cosmetic use of silica spicules for transdermal delivery.” The PubMed record provides no abstract, so it would be inappropriate to claim conclusions that are not available there. What we can say is that the growing cosmetic use of silica spicules is receiving attention within dermatology as well as the beauty industry.
The sensible approach is not fear, but appropriate use.
When Should You Be More Cautious?
Resurfacing is not something to add simply because a product or procedure happens to be trending.
Extra caution is appropriate when the skin is already irritated or its barrier is compromised, including situations such as active eczema or dermatitis, a rosacea flare, inflamed lesions, sunburn, or recent aggressive resurfacing. Strong retinoid and exfoliating routines also need to be considered.
Skin history matters too.
Someone who tends to develop pigmentation after inflammation, has melasma, or has reacted unpredictably to previous procedures should mention that history before beginning another resurfacing approach.
The decision should be based on the condition of the skin at that time and the individual’s goals.
What Should You Expect After a Professional Spicule Treatment?
Temporary prickling is common.
You may also notice some pinkness or mild redness shortly afterwards. During the following days, some people experience dryness, roughness, flaking or peeling, while others have very little visible peeling.
Gentle aftercare becomes especially important during this period.
Strong exfoliating acids, retinoids and physical scrubs are paused while the skin recovers. Hydration, barrier-supportive skincare and daily sun protection become the priority.
And peeling should never be treated as a scorecard.
More peeling does not automatically mean a better result.
At Iris Beauty Solution, our current spicule skin-renewal program also includes a follow-up Korean facial approximately two weeks later. This gives us an opportunity to see how the skin responded and focus the second visit on hydration, comfort and barrier-supportive care.
Read our Post-Care Instructions for recovery guidance.
A Practitioner’s Perspective
Sponge-based skin renewal is not entirely new to me.
Earlier in my career, I worked with another professional resurfacing system based on freshwater sponge material. The application technique, prickling sensation and subsequent response made the concept very different from either a conventional facial or a chemical peel.
Years later, professional Korean systems brought my attention back to this type of skin renewal.
What interests me is not the idea that it should replace every peel, microneedling treatment or energy-based procedure. It should not.
Its value is that it provides another way to approach skin renewal.
For some clients, traditional microneedling makes more sense. For others, a chemical peel, IPL or another option may better match the concern.
Sometimes a non-energy-based approach is a useful place to start.
The choice should come from looking at the actual skin — its sensitivity, pigmentation history, congestion, dryness, previous reactions and the client’s goals.
The Bottom Line
Spicules are more than an unusual Korean skincare ingredient, but they are not magic microscopic needles either.
They are tiny sponge-derived structures that physically interact with the superficial skin. Research supports their ability to create microchannels and alter skin permeability, while the rapidly expanding cosmetic market is still generating questions about formulations, frequency of use and longer-term safety. View the marine sponge spicule study.
If you are considering an in-clinic procedure, the most useful question is not whether this approach is “better” than microneedling or another resurfacing method.
It is:
Does this approach make sense for my skin and what I am trying to improve?
Frequently Asked Questions
What Happens to the Spicules After Treatment?
Spicules do not stay in the skin permanently. They remain temporarily within the superficial skin after treatment and are gradually cleared as the skin naturally renews and sheds.
Can I use retinol or exfoliating acids with spicule skincare?
Combining several irritating or exfoliating approaches can increase redness and barrier irritation. Retinoids and strong acids are generally avoided around professional treatment and should be used cautiously with home-care products according to product directions and skin tolerance.
Is a professional spicule treatment the same as an at-home serum?
No. Both may use sponge-derived microscopic structures, but formulation, concentration, application method, protocol and aftercare can differ substantially.
Ready to Explore Professional Spicule Skin Renewal?
If you’re interested in this approach and want to understand whether it fits your skin concerns, learn more about our professional Korean spicule treatment in Vancouver.
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